Saturday, July 11, 2015

all things wordsworth (plus an exciting run-in with gingerbread)

welcome to wordworth's manor, friends!
I went to bed last night praying, “Hey, God—can you just give me the strength and stamina for a few more days? I’m in England—I should be grateful and excited, but right now I’m just exhausted.”

Because, as my friend LucyRose put it: “We’ve been moving every few days, living out of our suitcases for two months, have no clue when/where our next meal will come from, have to adjust to culture while still doing school-work, are around people we don’t know super well so we can’t necessarily let our guard down, are rarely ever alone….It’s difficult.”

I guess I just didn’t realize how difficult it would be. It’s been a good trip. Really. Please don’t think I’m complaining—I realize I’m incredibly blessed/lucky to be able to do this…But it hasn’t been all roses and butterflies.

Anyways, I woke up well-rested thanks to the Benadryl my friend Jeff gave me. We boarded a bus at nine and headed out to Rydal Mount, William and Mary Wordsworth’s home for 37 years (1813-1850).

entry-way to rydal mount
 It was in this home that Wordsworth composed and published many of his poems, and the gardens surrounding the home were designed by Wordsworth and are a wonderful example of Romantic gardening. It’s nature seemingly run wild, yet carefully maintained. Rock paths meander through wooded forest, stone pools collect water, and long stretches of grassy fields glisten with morning dew.

garden path-way

We toured the house (which is still owned by Wordsworth’s descendants), checking out Wordsworth’s study, bedroom, living room, etc. 

wordsworth's personal library
wordy's favorite chair
Several pieces of original furniture are still in the home, as well as original paintings and manuscripts. It’s a beautiful country villa with incredible views—if I was Wordsworth, I’d have enough inspiration to compose masterpieces there too! 

beds of wordy & mary
The gardens were intricate mazes of greenery, and we spent a bit of time tripping around in them. There were hidden glens of rose bushes and green-houses full of delicate flowers. 


We sat in the tea garden for awhile, enjoying the scenery before heading into Grasmere, the small town by Wordsworth’s house.

We ate lunch at a local café before purchasing some (apparently very famous) gingerbread from a small store—Sarah Nelson’sGingerbread. It was literally a tiny room with a counter and shelves; two elderly ladies were packaging the ginger-bread and distributing it as fast as they could. I’ve never had anything like it—a sandy, flat cookie/bar, served warm and with small chunks of ginger hidden inside it. Fascinating and surprisingly delicious. I bought several and hope to bring them home to the fam (don’t worry, guys—you’re getting more than that. I bought some postcards for you too…) 

look at that scenery! views like this are on every side of the lake district
After that, we explored the town for a bit, popping into Wordsworth’s church where a Rushbearing ceremony was about to take place. Apparently, this has been a tradition since 1680, where the public was promised a pint of ale for bringing rushes to repair the church. We didn’t have time to stay for it, though, as we had another spot to head to: Wordsworth’s Dove Cottage.

dove cottage
Wordsworth and his wife Mary lived in Dove Cottage for the first few years of their marriage, and his three children were born there. It was much smaller than his later home—dark and cramped too. Apparently, it had been a pub in the 1700’s before being made into a house.

mary papered these walls to keep the room warm-- these are still her original newspapers!
dove cottage living room
There was a Wordsworth museum and I looked inside but I’m honestly a bit museumed out at the moment and, as my friend Nathaniel put it: “I don’t feel like looking at any more stuff.”

Took the bus back and am enjoying an empty hostel room to myself before dinner, which I think will be Thai food with some friends.

Tomorrow, I’m planning on hiking a trail with the Galbraith family and finishing the last few bits & pieces of my essays.

Feeling like I can make the final push! Cheers, folks!

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